Le ossa dei morti (the bones of the dead)

What are we doing in Milan for Halloween? Il Pane dei Morti!! This crumbly classic hails from northern Italy's Lombardia region (Lombardy), with Milan as its undisputed heart—where foggy canals and grand duomos set the moody stage for baking. It's a Milanese must, but variations pop up across the north (like Lake Como villages) and even into Italian Switzerland. Southward tweaks exist—Umbria's fave (beans) dei morti are bean-shaped cousins—but Lombardia owns the OG recipe, dished out in pasticcerie e panetterie come October.